After my article earlier in the week about Rohloff hubs and their failing compatibility with modern MTB suspension frames, I was asked by a reader what the big deal with Rohloff hubs is. Why do I prefer a Rohloff hub over a conventional derailleur set-up.
Well, the idea is simple, even if the execusion can sometimes be more complicated. In short, I love the Rohloff Speedhub because it gives you an incredibly useful 14 gears with near zero maintenance requirements in a package that guarantees function in any condition, in a quiet and good looking package.
I originally built up a Knolly Delirium T with a Rohloff Speedhub. I wanted a bike I could ride every day, hard without having to check my bike over, or fiddle with gears/brakes. The gear solution was the Rohloff hub. On a hardtail, you can run a chain as if it were a singlespeed, so ZERO chain slap. On a full sus bike, you need to run a chain tensioner, however you can run this tensioner very tight to almost eliminate chain slap.
What this gives you is a bike that rides so incredibly quietly. No noisy chains, mis shifts or scrambling for traction accross a cassette. A Rohloff always has the right gear for you and lets you descend with prowess giving the illusion that you're floating while everybody else is going "clang, ding, slap".
I used to go months without washing my bike. And went 3,500 miles before replacing my chain and chainring (Roloff sprocket was still fine). And WOW, it looks great. Certainly is a conversation starter on the trail. With a 44t chainring, the 14 gears would spread similar to that of a 27spd drivetrain enabling you to go up and down anything.
What was particularly neat, say you're folling your mate up a steep grade and he fluffs his gears and looses traction. Fear not, you can simply chainge down and carry on pedalling. No need to wait for a chain to move accross and you loose your footing. Shifting without the need to pedal is far more useful than you think.
At c£1k it's allot of money for a a heavy hub, but factor in a Chris King rear hub, XTR shifters, cassette, chain, rear mech, front mech and chainrings and you have yourself a comparable value dream component that will have your bike the envy of desire. The hub does weigh allot though. My Mavic DH rim with straight gauge spokes and a 2.4 ST Maxxis High Roller gave me a 12lb rear wheel! However, dressed smartly, the rear wheel could match the weight of a bike equiped with a conventional SLX drivetrain.
Rohloff Speedhub, if it fits your bike it'll be the best upgrade you could make!
Comment below if you have fitting concerns and I'll get you the answers!
I'm a big fan of Rohloff Speedhubs. They should last you a life time and ironically, I've had two. Hubs, not lifetimes. Both were on bikes that were stolen.
Owning a Rohloff Speedhub is like buying membership to a club, but this club has a specific type of member and unfortunately, new technologies in bike manufacture, means some members, including me are growing out of the brand.
Compatibility issues have always been the number one reason why you might not be able to buy one of these amazing feits of engineering. Well, maybe joint with cost. c£1000 for hub with disc brake attachment options. Rohloff produce a number of versions to facilitate the fitment of aSpeedhub to many different bikes. Any roadbike or touring bike should facilitate the fitting without a problem and until recently, most hardtail mountain bikes and full suspension bikes too.
Sadly, with the evolution of the disc brake mount from IS (international standard) to "post mount", frames with this method of disc fitting are no longer compatible with the "Dogbone" attachment Rohloff make available for full suspension bikes that is critical to the function of the hub. Even if a new Dogbone was made to be compatible with a postmount disc (the disc rotor would have to be 140mm or less to function with a new adapter anyway), Rohloff hubs are no longer compatible with the new wider spacing of new full suspension frames.
The widest Speedhub axle is 135mm threaded or QR. I've heard of people modifying axles to fit downhill bikes before (not sure if this is true), but the hub is totally uncompatible with the 135mm Maxle thru axle design and especially incompatible with the new 142mm standard that I'm running on my Rocky Mountain Slayer 70. Indeed, I challenge you to find any modern mid/long travel all mountain bike that still runs a 135mm QR axle.
I asked UK importer Ison-Distribution - who in-turn forwarded my query to Rohloff AG directly in Germany - if a new plan is a-foot to offer modern axle types. Their response was completely valid and understandable, yet sadly Rohloff remain a small company who can't afford the radical re-tooling, marketing and R&D involved in building a new Speedhub compatible with modern frame standards, especiallyu as the mountain bike market remains such a small part of their business. Rohloff's response hints that unless the mountain bike industy settles on a true standard (142mm is new and may not be what all brands settle on), Rohloff will not consider making the hub compatible in these formats.
I'm sad that I will not own another Rohloff in the forseeable future. My style of riding demands one, but my style of bike will not allow one.
The SPEEDHUB cannot be cheaply adapted to accommodate an axle of wider or longer dimensions. A different axle diameter or length will involve numerous internal components being completely redesigned and produced on a small scale for what is an incredibly small percentage of our customer base. We would love to offer solutions but alas, this will not be possible until the market settles on a standard for these dimensions.
The Speedbone issue is unfortunately a similar issue but one which goes hand-in-hand with that mentioned above as most frames with the new axle dimensions also incorporate the Postmount brake style.
The Postmount itself causes issues because the only standardized face is the caliper mount itself. A new adapter for torque support over this face would result in e.g. a 180mm disc being required as opposed to the normal 160mm - because the adapter would cause the caliper to be mounted further from the axle. Now, generally this isn't such a problem and we could develop a solution. Unfortunately however, the true issue why we do not offer such a solution is the dropout itself and not the brake mount type.
The axleplates of the SPEEDHUB require a plan surface of 40mm diameter around the axle (see owners manual - page 29). These Postmount frames no longer need to remain flush up to the brake mount (as was with the IS standard) and the increasing majority of designs tend to no longer offer this necessary 40mm flush area. New Speedbone or not, we are unable to get around this problem.
The result of both issues you inquired about is that a small company such as the Rohloff AG is simply unable to recuperate the R&D, logistic and marketing costs on such a small scale development. As a small manufacturer are forced to focus our limited resources on our most profitable market sectors and to date, MTBs equate to just a small percentage of our customer base. Developments specifically for the MTB market are therefore understandably slow in bearing fruit.
We are continuously investigating all possibilities in these areas but I (personally) do not see any cost effective solutions in the near future.
Some time ago, Velominati blog published "The Rules". These rules consisted of common faux pas of the road cyclist in an effort to retain common sense, improve the opinion of non-cyclists (motorists?) by ensuring cyclists are considerate to other road users and generally seperate the "sport cyclist" from the die hard enthusiast.
As a die-hard cyclist myself, I applaud many of the "rules" raised in Velominati's article, but I can't help but feel some of the rules seperate the sport a little too much. You know when you're riding along and a group of road cyclists pass you by in full team strip, without a smile on their face and ignore your 'nod of acknowlegdement'? That's the kind of rider who would adhere to every one of those rules and as such I urge you to read the rules with a pinch of salt.
Some of those rules can be transferred to the world of mountain biking, but others not. Here is bikdibley's take on "The Rules" for mountain biking, geared up to improve mountain biking for everybody.
2. Never aid the breaking of these rules by anybody else
3. Have fun
4. If your MTB ride should join the public road for any period, remember to ride responsibly - you're used to riding as you wish on the trail, but form an orderly line and be considerate to each others' safety
5. Don't be an idiot to other users of the countryside - if the mountain biker before you was an idiot, those users would be less acceptable of you. Set a good example
6. If you see someone injured, stop and help
7.If you see someone with a broken bike, stop and offer your help.
8. Offer you mates a lift. They're your mates and riding together is fun.
9. Always carry a phone with you (unless you're racing).
10. No digging on, around or near anyone else's trails. There are 2 exceptions to this rule:
If you case a landing or blow out a berm you must fix it. You must only return it to it's previous state. You must not "improve", alter, or otherwise change it.
Otherwise, you may only dig someone else's trail if you have been invited to do so.
11. If you ride someone else's trail, you must offer to help dig (If you ride Queen Elizabeth Country Park, fine QECP Trail Builders on Facebook)
12. If you turn up at someone else's trail and they are digging, you must not ride, unless you are invited to do so.
13. If you ride someone else's trail, unless it is obvious that it is a well know location, you must assume otherwise and therefore not tell other riders the location of this trail. Secret trails are secret trails.
14. No Littering. Anywere. This includes car parks as well in the woods. You carried it to the woods. Carry it home. It's lighter and smaller once your eaten/drunk what was in it.
15. Goggle tear-offs are litter. Treat them as such. Tear offs are crap anyway.
16. If you ride at a location where you are required to pay, you must pay. - Trail centre "charge schemes" are often operated on a trust basis.
17.If you park where you are required to pay, you must pay. - These funds go towards maintaining the trails you're riding. So, even if you ride at night and think you can "get away without paying for parking", it's normally cheap so pay!
18. Close gates that were closed before you arrived. If you find an open gate, use common sense to decide what to do. If you see livestock, you'll probably need to close the gate.
19. No stopping in the middle of singletrack. If you stop, get off the trail.
20. No riding around puddles on singletrack to avoid them. Manual or hop. Riding around puddles causes erosion and widens the trail. Singletrack is narrow for a reason.
21. No pushing up "downhill" tracks. Use common sense.
22. Matching race kit is for racing only., and even then only if you are fast, or under 12. You may wear coordnated colours.
23. Number boards are for racing only.
24. Wear a helmet whenever you are on a bike.
25. Wear a helmet appropriate to the trail. No XC lids on DH tracks. No DH lids on XC rides(unless you only have 1 helmet). And while we're on the subject, full facehelmets should not be used while commuting!
26. Wear appropriate protection/body armour for the trails you are riding. - Full body armour isn't needed for riding bridleways.
27. Never wear body armour over your riding kit. You'll look like a tit. The only exception is a neckbrace.
28. If you're going to wear a neckbrace, Only wear one with a Full face helmet. Avoid wearing it off of the bike.
29. Do not have your name on your bike. You are not a pro. (Unless you are a pro)
30. Never use the word "freeride". You are not Canadian. This is not the 1990's.
31. Never call your bike a steed. It is not a horse. You are not a presenter on Top Gear.
32. Spiked/wet weather tyres should not be used in dry conditions on soft soil. You'll do more damage to the trail and the rest of the countryside.
33. No one shall ever use a Maxxis Minion Rear tyre. They are pointless (personal opinion of AG. Super Tacky Minions work well on Whistler rock. But that's it - BD).
34. Own a multiple tyres. Fit the correct ones to your bike as dictated by the weather and the tracks you are riding. If you get this right, they should be the only part of you/your bike which make regular contact with the ground. Get this wrong and more of you/your bike will make regular contact with the ground.
35. If you catch someone else on the trail ahead, don't buzz their back wheel or force them off the track. Say excuse me like you would do if you weren't on a bike. If you really must and only if it's safe to pass, shout "rider".
36. Bikes belong in cars, not on cars where possible.
37. You shall not attach a bag or toolkit to your frame. If you really have to, you may attach it under the saddle.
38. A pump should never be attached to a frame.
39. Mountain biks should never have a kick-stand attached.
40. If you're riding downhill for any length of time, or if you intend to jump, or if you think you might accidentally leave the ground - lower your saddle as appropriate. Not doing so could result in a "dead sailor".
41. Keep your bike clean. It cost you a lot of money
42. Keep your bike well maintained. broken bike = crash.
43. Use appropriate footwear. White running shoes look terrible and novice-like.
43. Shop at reputable bicycle retailers. As long as you go to a proper bike shop and avoid "superstores" you'll buy a good bike, built by a professional. You don't have to pay a fortune, just buy it from the right place.
44. Buy an appropriate sized bike. Small bikes may look cool, but if it doesn't fit, you won't have as much fun.
45. Try night riding. If you don't, you won't ride for half the year.
46. Don't be scared of rain. Unless you live in sunny SoCal, ride in the rain and cold from time-to-time or you won't ride.
47. Don't buy bikes, bike parts, or clothing if you suspect them to be knocked off - I did once and felt terrible.
48. Ride a bike park. If you've only ever ridden in the UK, you must get your bike on a plane and ride at a ski resport in the summer. Most cater for bikes in the off-season and offer some of the most spectacular trails you can't imagine. Try the Alps if you're on a budget, or Whistler if you have pennies to burn.
49. Don't have strong opinions of bike gear you haven't used.
50. Use magazines as a guide to what kit to buy. They're not a bible though. Their opinions are not your opnions until you've been there, ridden that or tried it.
51. Don't be a Shit mountain biker and say any of the following: (video below)
Got more rules? Post the rules below and include a link to your website/blog and I'll publish them in the article.
It seems to be the season for snow bikes. I only wrote an article featuring the Hanerink extreme condition bike a month ago which Blue Peter's Helen Skelton will be using to get her to the South Pole. See that article HERE. Well, it seems Moots has given in and will be building 20 FrosTi models with 3.7" tyre capability and geometry that will be able to take a 29er suspension fork (with a conventional wheel added).
The below article was grabbed from BikeRadar.com which includes the details. Note Moots' earlier RigorMootis custom bike which I think is waaaayy cooler than the FrosTi. This Rigormootis uses a rear wheel on the front complete with cassette. This provides the ability to swap wheels if you find your cassette becomes compact with ice. Awesome custom painted rims, with matching fork crown, bars and Race Face Next LP Carbon cranks.
It seems Moots are forgetting something...Don't you find when riding in snow, your cassete becomes clogged with ice at times? Well wouldn't a rohloff hub and Gates Carbon Belt drive solve this issue? I would think so, which makes me wonder why these "extreme condition" bikes aren't using the famous gear hub?
After years of producing fewer than 10 bespoke one-offs for insistent customers and Iditabike racer Mike Curiak, Moots will finally put their titanium snow bike into production – albeit in a very small run capped at just 20 frames.
The FrosTi is designed around a maximum 3.7in tire width front and rear, with a 100mm-wide threaded bottom bracket shell, 170mm rear hub spacing, ultra-widely-set chainstays and seatstays, and 135mm front hub spacing for the recommended Salsa Enabler rigid chromoly fork.
According to Moots, the FrosTi's geometry will also accommodate an 80mm-travel 29er fork for fair-weather riding. Other adventure-specific features include through-guides for full-length housing throughout and options for a third water bottle mount and rack mounts. Up front, a 44mm-diameter head tube allows for straight and tapered steerers.
Snow bike fans will notice a number of changes on the FrosTi relative to Moots' earlier custom builds – understandable since the original versions were said to be so labor-intensive to construct that Moots were virtually unwilling to sell them. There'll be no optional slider dropouts on the FrosTi, no belt drive option, and no option for S&S couplers.
I was sent a link today by a colleague to The Rules on Velominati blog. An interesting and incredibly appropriate piece listing 87x rules that must be obeyed if you are to become a successful road rider.
When I say "successful", I don't mean the next Mark Cavendish or Lance Armstrong, I just mean the kind of cyclist that other people want to be around and the kind of cyclist who makes the most out of the sport.
The new phase in cycling is the advent of the MAMIL. Middle Age Man in Lycra. Golf is no longer the default sport of the discerning gentleman. Cycling is. Some like mountain biking, more like road riding, but equally, our sport is growing and people should know how to participate.
It's common to see somebody on the street in all the gear but under the torque of pedalling, the bike sways radically left to right, or perhaps blasts through red lights.
This very useful and interesting list should be the bible for any new-comers to road cycling. We should probably take a few tips as a mountain biker too!
Who fancies a mount
ain bike version? I think one needs writing. Coming soon...
Having a busy life doesn't have to mean you can't find time to ride your mountain bike. The other morning I was up at 6 and instead of my usual run, I jumped on my mountain bike and hit the single track.
I'm lucky enough to live in the country and be no more than 150ft from the first bit of single track. I gave the Frensham pond a blast and took in all the singletrack I could.
There's something quite nice about being up early in silent countryside watching the sun start to creep up in the distance.
I don't know about you, but I can't remember the amount of times I have shouted my head off at car drivers who don't see me. A common one is their ability to completely forget about you instantly. A driver might overtake you and instantly decide to cut you up as if you weren't moving. They must think you were standing still and can't comprehend the fact you might be moving. In some cases, at quite a speed.
I've owned cycle horns before and while they have performed averagely, they do nothing more than sound a polite "excuse me please". The Hornit db140 Horn says something more like "watch where the hell you're going!!!".
As the name suggests, this horn - about the size of your average bike headlight - packs a whopping 140 decibles to make sure nobody misses your presence. A neat remote button comes with it and can be mounted right next to your thumb.
This video is a good way to show you the effect it has. It costs £34.99 which seems reasonable to me and available directly from www.thehornit.com.
